DIY: The Invisible Hem

When we left off with Hemming 101, I discussed the ways I like to hem dress pants and jeans. This time I want to talk about the invisible hem. It is exactly what it sounds like – a hem that you can’t see from the outside.

There are two ways you can sew an invisible hem on a pair of pants – by hand and with a sewing machine. The sewing machine method requires a special foot for your machine (which I don’t have yet). For that reason I do my invisible hemming by hand. It’s longer to complete than if you were to do an invisible hem on a sewing machine, but is easy to quality control in case you make any mistakes.

For the invisible hem you’ll need scissors, a sewing needle, thread, pins, and pants.

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If at any point you get confused or need to see this in action, I highly recommend this YouTube video. Let’s begin!

Start by pinning the excess fabric up to where you want to hem the pants. For this particular pair, I hemmed up 3 inches and created the hem by folding the original hem up twice.

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Thread the needle and knot the end of the thread. Begin by bringing your needle up and through the bottom part of the excess fabric.

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With the thread coming through the top of the excess hem fabric, carefully pick up a few inside threads of the pants with the tip of the needle, just above the hem.

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Once you have a few inside thread picked up, bring the needle underneath the top of the hem and pull through.

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Here are a few stitches on the pants I hemmed. As you can see the thread comes from the top of the fabric, a few interior threads are picked up, and the thread is then sewed down underneath the hem fabric.

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Here are two views of the full hem sewed with the invisible hem stitch. It doesn’t need to be perfect or super tight.

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Check it out – no visible hem!

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Here is the finished product. You can see a vague indent of where the hem is but no visible threading. Oof, these pants definitely need to be ironed.

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Author: Domestocrat

I'm a lady who enjoys photography, football, cooking, long drives with the windows down, This American Life, kettlecorn, hot yoga, pop punk, my nephews, my cat Reggie, and my home: Boston.

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